PCT Days 66 to 70: The New Millennium
I'm burnt out on my current playlist, so I need new music suggestions. I'm a fan of indie rock/pop, and I've been enjoying artists like The Band CAMINO, The WLDLFE, nightly, and The Strike. Now, onto the PCT journey.
Day 66: Yosemite Zero
Another zero day in Yosemite, one of the world's most breathtaking places. However, my peace was disrupted by noisy neighbors who woke up at 4:30, oblivious to the concept of shared spaces. Despite the early start, I managed to fall back asleep, which was a blessing. After a slower wake-up, I ventured out for coffee and a chance to blog, soaking in the Saturday atmosphere in Yosemite Valley. It was a stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of human civilization, but I appreciated the natural beauty and the lack of walking.
I reminisced about my previous visit to this spot, just over five years ago, during my road trip. The valley was bustling with people of all ages, capturing the beauty of waterfalls, granite walls, and even squirrels. It was a shock to my system, but I found solace in the quiet wilderness. I was mindful of the potential health risks from touching surfaces, a constant worry in such places.
Back at the campground, I joined the group relaxing by the Merced River, where Shoeski's friends from LA had arrived with an RC car. It was entertaining to watch them navigate the sand and dirt hills, seemingly unaffected by obstacles. The highlight of the day was a delicious dinner, complete with carne asada tacos and ceviche, a welcome change from cooking.
As the sun set, we drove to El Capitan to witness climbers in action. With binoculars, we spotted some ropes and gear, but the sight of a group scaling the wall opposite El Capitan was truly awe-inspiring. Their bravery and skill were remarkable.
Day 67: First Thunderstorm
The day began with a late start, but I indulged in a hearty breakfast, including ceviche, sausage, and bacon. I finally got to listen to 'Game Changer,' a romance novel with actual human emotions, a refreshing change from the disappointing 'Say You'll Remember Me.'
The trail back into the wilderness was slow, with the weather still hot and sunny. I made my way north of Tuolumne Meadows, passing through tall grasses and flowing waterfalls. The anticipation of an approaching storm added an element of excitement.
As the thunder grew louder, I sought refuge in my tent, crouching with my feet on my sit pad. The storm unleashed its fury, and I witnessed the rain and lightning through the roof vent. The thunder echoed above me, a surreal experience. After thirty minutes, I took a brief nap, lulled by the soothing sounds of the storm.
The storm subsided, and I hurried to make up for lost miles, only to take a wrong turn, adding two more miles to my journey. I eventually found a campsite just before the group, exhausted and ready for a break.
Day 68: Running on Fumes in Mosquito Hell
I woke up late and struggled to leave, feeling utterly exhausted. Even an emergency ramen bomb couldn't boost my energy. My legs felt like lead, and it took me an astonishing five hours to walk just seven miles. I was at a standstill, unable to move faster.
The day's challenge was climbing Benson and Seavey passes, a demanding uphill trek. The valley's granite and proliferous creeks offered a stunning contrast to the alpine zones. A surprise rainbow among the ponds added a touch of magic.
I was grateful for the energy I had regained, pushing over those passes and covering 21 miles, despite being three miles short of the group. The trail conditions were treacherous, with Yosemite mud covering my shoes and ankles. The mosquito hell was relentless, and I had to fight them off constantly.
I pitched my tent near Kerrick Creek, cooking my dinner while the bugs swarmed the mesh door. The dehydrated meal was a welcome nourishment in the midst of the insect invasion.
Day 69: Nice Day for a New Millennium
I set an early alarm to catch up with the group, who remained just out of reach. The morning's challenge was a series of big ups and downs, covering five miles. The trail then became largely flat or downhill, making it an ideal day to rejoin the group.
I encountered Monty again, who I'd met on Muir Pass, climbing with determination. The trail's challenges continued, with more streams, meadows, and bog conditions. I met a hiker who had packed out a beer from Yosemite, three days ago, showcasing dedication.
The day was generally chill, but hot in the sun and bug-infested near water sources. I felt more energized with the food I had, and my spirits lifted as I reached Dorothy Lake, the northernmost Yosemite landmark. I waded in the refreshing water, relishing the coolness it provided.
I discovered a connection to the painting 'Thousand Island Lake' at CLEEF, even though it was not Dorothy Lake. The sentiment still held true.
I celebrated reaching 1000 miles with fellow hikers at a stone monument, including Giardia Man (Mosby). I had eight more miles to go, so I plugged in and listened to my book, enduring a sudden hail and rain storm for twenty minutes.
After 27 miles, I arrived at camp as the sun set, happy to see my group. I cooked dinner, gazing at the pink peaks and the possibility of a fox family nearby.
Day 70: The Highest Sierra Moves Behind Us
The group embarked on a daring plan to reach Sonora Pass by 9:30 for a shuttle into Kennedy Meadows North. We set off at 5:30, facing a steep climb along the edge of a ridge as the sun rose.
The trail offered shady snowfields and slick ice, resembling a one-lane road. We traversed more snow and scree bowls, witnessing the landscape transition from sharp granite to red-grey pumice. Kul Cat and Muffin Man joined us on the trail.
I knew I wouldn't make the 9:30 target, but I made up for it by sliding along soft snow, cutting some trail. I encountered snowboarders camped out below, their S-shaped board tracks visible above.
At Sonora Pass, Suave and Shoeski caught a hitch, and we joined Monty and the group in the truck's open tail. We raced down Highway 108, the smell of brakes filling the air, but the beauty of the ride made up for the fear.
We arrived at Kennedy Meadows North, where Monty shared a profound insight. I had often complained about my slow pace and the longer hiking days, feeling frustrated.
'It's not about miles per hour. It's about miles per day.' Monty's words resonated with me. I realized that I was still on track and moving fast, even if it took me longer. My body had adapted to the hiking routine, and I felt proud of my progress.
At KMN, the heat was intense, and the visitors were camping, glamping, or horseback riding. The restaurant offered a disappointing cheeseburger and an expensive resupply option. The return shuttle was a squeeze, with 14 people and a dog in a transit van, but it was a necessary journey.
Back at the trail, we headed out for the final stretch, up and down into a canyon. The familiar surroundings helped me stay focused, and I finished 'Game Changer,' enjoying the characters' resolutions. We dined with new faces, Forerunner and Pics, overlooking the river from the rocks above.
